Tomatos, Peppers, Eggplants

PLANTING DATES

MARCH (Indoor Start) | MAY (Outdoor Start Or Transplant)

MARCH (INDOOR START) 

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Start Indoors around March 1st, or the first weekend in March. Indoor Grow Time: 2.5 months 

Place the starts directly in the soil. 

A note on compostable pots: If your outdoor soil is adequately tilled and aerated with enough even regular moisture to help compostable pots break down, we like to use 4” pots made of compostable material (from your local garden store) because it’s easy to just tear the bottom of the pot off and pop the whole thing in the ground when it’s time to transplant. This protects the tender roots from shifting soil and makes it an easier task. However, if the soil is not just right, the pot material may not break down, binding the roots as the plant grows and inhibiting healthy production.

APRIL 

In April, identify a sunny spot where they’ll be planted outdoors or in a cold-frame (these thrive in full sun). Make sure to remove weeds, adequately till the soil, and add any required nutrients (NPK) or amendments (compost). This creates a healthy environment for your veggies to thrive. 

MAY (TRANSPLANT OUTDOORS)

Then, around Mother’s Day in early May, you can start watching the weather forecast and, as soon as no frost is forecast, go ahead and transplant those into the ground where they’ll live. 

GROW TIME

Early-season varieties take from 55 to 70 days.  “Bush Early Girl” and “Fourth of July” are two popular early-season tomatoes.

Mid-season varieties include “Champion,” “Celebrity,” “Big Girl” and “Brandywine,” among many others.  Expect them to need 70 to 80 growing days.

Late-season varieties take up to 90 days to harvest from transplant.  The big beefsteak tomatoes are usually in this group.

SOIL

Tomatoes thrive best in nutrient rich soil. The Big Three. Nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (NPK) known as "primary nutrients," are the three main ingredients in most fertilizers, along with necessary trace minerals such as magnesium, and are vital to tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants. Plant growth and chlorophyll production depend on nitrogen and phosphorus helping these plants grow and cope with stress while aiding in energy production. For blossom end rot, try adding calcium (powder or crushed egg shells) over the long term to balance nutrient presence. Or add micro organisms to aid in nutrient uptake by the roots.

WATER

Did you know? A drip system is preferable over a sprayer. Tomatoes ideally like to drink from evenly moist well drained soil, but don’t typically appreciate their leaves getting wet. This may be because many common pathogens present in soil can be splashed up onto the bottom leaves, contributing to diseases such as blossom end rot. Adding a layer of straw or organic mulch on top of the soil is a good way to keep moisture levels even, and leaves protected.

LIGHT

Identify a sunny spot where they’ll be planted outdoors. Tomatoes love the sun and require at least 4-5 hours per day for decent production. Tomatoes, Peppers, and Eggplants will do OK in partial sun, but you'll have to wait longer for a full crop. The more light you have, the faster they'll mature.

TOMATO VARIETIES

  • Cherokee Purple (heirloom)              •   Early Girl (hybrid)                   • Brandywine (cooking)

  • Fourth of July (heirloom)                     • Sun Gold (cherry)

  • Black Krim (heirloom)                           • Celebrity (indeterminate)

Determinate tomatoes produce their bounty at the beginning of the season in a shortened period of time such as 4-5 weeks, then they’re done. Ideal for preserving or for those who desire quick fruit. To fill out the season, we recommend growing other varieties as well that give a  more prolonged harvest.

Indeterminate tomatoes produce less weekly than determinate, but thankfully they offer their bounty throughout the whole season — producing right up until fall frost. These  usually get tall enough to require staking or a tomato cage.

Hybrids are a cross between two parent plants that select for traits like flavor, hardiness, or heavy fruit set.  They’re also more resistant to common diseases. Harvested seeds will likely revert to one of the parent varieties. 

Heirlooms are passed down from earlier generations. They grow big and luscious and full of flavor, but are also more prone to common tomato diseases. Heirlooms are open-pollinated; seeds collected from one year produce plants that resemble the parent plant. 

 

D I Y JULY (MID SEASON)

“My tomatoes are flowering and fruiting, but they’re still not very big . . .

Is there something I can do to maintain them at this stage?”

Yes! Adjust your watering, change your fertilizer composition, manage airflow, and check physical supports to sustain your tomato plants through this intensive production stage.

Your plants are growing vigorously and showing healthy blossom sets. Implementing the following key maintenance routines will optimize your harvest:

1. Shift to Low-Nitrogen Fertilizer

  • Stop using high-nitrogen growth fertilizers. Excessive nitrogen will prioritize lush green foliage over fruit development.

  • Switch to a fertilizer high in phosphorus and potassium. These nutrients actively support robust blossom setting and fruit maturation.

  • Organic options like bone meal, wood ash, or specialized liquid tomato foods are excellent at this phase.

Recommended: CLICK HERE TO SEE OUR TAKE ON The Bomb’ Soil Mix

To perfectly feed your flowering green tomatoes, pair "The Bomb" organic soil mix by Paonia (that has low nitrogen and high potassium) with an organic bone meal or a high-phosphorus fish bone meal amendment. This combination creates a balanced, slow-release mix that fuels both bloom production and fruit ripening.

2. Practice Deep, Consistent Watering

  • Water the base of the plants deeply 2 to 3 times a week rather than light daily sprinkling.

  • Fluctuating moisture levels cause the expanding tomato skins to split or crack open.

  • Inconsistent watering also restricts calcium uptake, resulting in a dark, sunken rot at the bottom of the fruit known as blossom-end rot.

  • Apply organic mulch like straw around the base to stabilize soil moisture levels and prevent splash-back.

3. Maintain Pruning and Structural Support

  • Clear out dense foliage inside the center cluster to enhance internal airflow and sunlight penetration. Improved circulation helps prevent late-season fungal diseases.

  • Trim any lower leaves that sag down and directly touch the ground soil, as these serve as entry paths for soil-borne pathogens.

  • Securely tie growing vines to your support stakes or trellis using soft garden twine or fabric strips. The rapid weight increase from clusters of swelling fruit can otherwise snap heavy branches.

4. Give the Blossoms a Little Shake

  • Tomatoes are self-fertile, but they rely on vibration from wind or insects to dislodge pollen inside the yellow flowers.

  • If your garden bed is shielded from the wind or lacks sufficient bee activity, gently tap or wiggle the flowering stems during midday to aid pollination and prevent blossoms from dropping off unused.